Balranald to the Murray

 

Jugiong to Gundagai – 15^th November to 16 November 2023 544km

 I have been keen to get back of the river to resume my Riding the Scorpion’s Tail project after a year of work and a year where a lot of the river was in flood, which I assumed would be above my boat’s capability and my skill level.

I logged on to Gumtree one day and saw a sit in kayak was for sale in Tumblong, only 90km away so I arranged to buy it.

Having the possibility of a couple of days between commitments I chose a relatively close section that was easy to access. The River Heights website https://www.waterwaysguide.org.au/river-levels said the river height was 2.33 metres on Thurday 7^th November which was close to the ‘good’ level. Almost not close enough unfortunately. And when I check again, it has been updated on the 17^th November, today and is 1.35 metres and below the minimum required and just above ‘stay home’.

Peita drove me to Jugiong and dropped me off. I camped in the area opposite the pub in the Jugiong Memorial Showgrounds, along with many caravans, some literally in a circle. The river access involves lowering the boat down a steep thistle covered bank. I should have camped at the Jugiong River Access point on the other side of the Bondarbo Bridge but they are doing a rebuild of the bridge, and anyway, I could walk across the road from the showground to have a bevy. I was as far east in the showground area as you could get, and when I got back from the pub two cars had moved in metres from me. Flockers.

Then I sat on the bank and watched four large cormorants and a smaller pied cormorant sit on a snag for an hour.

I didn’t get much sleep because of the endless stream of truck on the highway, and was up early. I had watched a youtube video of someone https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8vGyNV10TRQ doing this section in low water so had a little idea of what to expect. What rapids there were, were complicated by the low water level. It the water had been 20cm deeper I would have scooted over most of the obstructions. As it was, I got out and walked one section where the water was in willows and one pinch point between fallen logs, but having looked at them both I could have navigated them safely. Then it became a series of finding the deepest channel to not bottom out.

Otherwise, it was great to be back on the river again. Was excited to see a platypus (I think) not far downstream from Jugiong. This comes after seeing one in Wagga when I was trying out my new kayak. These are the first I have seen in over 500km of travel on the river. Of course, you hear lots of splashes as something hides but can not confirm if it is a fish, rakali, or platypus.

Sadly, the riparian paddocks again were treeless except for the banks, where stock sought shade. There are high hills rising above the river and they are mostly sheep paddocks, with few paddock trees. There are many sheep and cattle at the waters edge, and on the dry and dusty banks.

There were numerous points where I had to choose the best way forward to paddling on the first day was never dull. The water was clear and there were lots of large fish, and an abundance of sea-eagles and their young. The first day is supposed to be 41km to the Sandy Falls Reserve campsite, which was meant to be after passing the Gobaralong Bridge. Again, I failed to see the reserve. Looking at google maps I can see that I stopped there but was not convinced it was the right place so continued downstream. I eventually stopped on a sand bank of a fast-flowing section of river about 4km further on. It was a lovely spot, with the river sound making for a nice white noise for sleep. I had a moment when I realized that in the youtube video he had said they had let water out of Burrinjuck during the night so I got up and sorted my gear in case I needed a hasty retreat.

Dawn on the river was beautiful. There was a trainee kookaburra just above my head, his motor running but never getting into full throated laughter, and of course the cockies yelling hello to their clan.

The shallow water continues until the junction with the Tumut, and in the morning light it is harder to see where the channels are. The surface is like a mirror, and everything to my right (west) is perfectly reflected. Near the junction I see what looks like a dog trying to get something out of the water and on getting nearer see that it is a fox, struggling to pull a dead sheep up onto the bank. He is entirely indifferent to me so I leave it to its struggle and paddle off. The influx of dark water from the Tumut increases the speed I can travel and I start worrying less about where the river is deep and more about where I can use its speed most effectively. Often this is the same course.

I need to contact Roads and Maritime and tell them all the warning signs for overhead powerlines have been knocked over by flooding (almost as far as Gundagai).

On four occasions I hear shots, which is always disconcerting because you never know when they are pointing in your direction without knowing you are there. Hopefully, they are good shots and hit what they are pointing at.

The birds continue to delight. Sadly I am continually making duck take off in front of me, and I interpret their agitated squawks as expletives. Cockies shout out ahead warning everyone, and I see one hanging upside off a branch. A rainbow bee eater buzzes me at one stage, and swallows dip and dive around me. At one stage a hawk and its mate yells at me for passing, possible an Australian Hobby? And I see two young sea-eagles harassing a large cormorant until it leaves its high dead branch vantage point with a grunt I’m sure is also an expletive.

The faster river brings me to some long sections and passing these I come suddenly on the Gundagai road bridge, and the caravan park where my car has been left. It takes a bit of mucking around to find the best place to land and get my craft out of the water and up the bank. With the help of a caravaner, it is loaded on my car and I am back on the road.